On the corner of Harvard St., near Tech Square, is a tiny Italian restaurant. I used to go there a bunch when I worked in Tech Square, but haven’t been in several years. In that time, Amelia’s has reinvented itself. They still have some of the same dish names that I remembered, but make them entirely differently.

There’s still a calamari appetizer. But it’s no longer the traditional greaseballs of squid with pepper. Now it’s served over a lemon risotto, with an incredible salty-garlic oil. There’s still gnocchi, but these are among the best gnocchi I’ve tasted.

Even the coffee’s better. I have no idea if it’s improved this much for lunch: the office-worker crowd is looking for something different. But the dinner food is absolutely incredible. This is the best food I’ve eaten when I didn’t start the meal with a migraine.